Title of the article:

POSSIBILITY OF RECONSTRUCTION OF FEMALE S-SHAPED COSTUME OF PROVINCIAL TOBOLSK IN THE END OF 19^TH – EARLY 20^TH CENTURY

Author(s):

Lidiya V. Balakhnina

Information about the author/authors

Lidiya V. Balakhnina — PhD in Arts, Tyumen State University, Volodarsky St., 6, 625003, Tyumen, Russia. E-mail: 89091812006@mail.ru

Section

History of Arts

Year

2019

Volume

Vol. 54

Pages

pp. 300–316

Received

February 28, 2019

Date of publication

December 28, 2019

Index UDK

745/749

Index BBK

85.126(2)53

Abstract

The article, based on empirical research carried out by the authors, addresses the issue of adaptive modifications of the European women's dress in Tobolsk province in the last third of the 19^th – early 20^th century, which determined the specificity of the S-shaped  silhouette and its interpretation. It displays the results of studying documentary sources in form of photographic images, memoirs, art albums, witnessing the transformation of vestimentary forms of townswomen of Tobolsk province. The paper explores characteristics of five modifications of profile contour (1870–1875, 1876–1880, 1881–1885, 1890–1900, 1901–1907). Modifications of the profile in question consist in the gradual transition from one form to another, when there was a relationship between external plastics and internal design of the costume. It reveals peculiarities of the items and devices forming its shape in the form of a corset, bustle, lingerie dress, overskirt, train, jabot, as well as color-textural specificity of textiles, affecting the plastic of the clothing model. The author highlighted the design and technological nuances of tailoring historical costumes or reconstructions by applying modern technologies to identify the scope of difficulties in their manufacture and enhance the professional competence of students of the artistic direction of D. I. Mendeleyev Tobolsk Pedagogical Institute.

Keywords

S-shaped silhouette, transformation, shape formation, bustle, corset, secular costume, Tobolsk, photographies.

References

1 Balakhnina L. V. Transformatsiia S-obraznogo silueta evropeiskogo zhenskogo kostiuma kontsa XIX – nachala XX vv. [Transformation of the S-shaped silhouette of the European women's costume of the late 19^th – early 20^th cs.: PhD thesis]. Barnaul, 2012. 248 p. (In Russian)

2 Bart R. Sistema mody. Stat'i po semiotike kul'tury [Fashion system. Articles on semiotics of culture], translation from French, introductory article and compilation by S. N. Zenkin. Moscow, Izdatel'stvo im. Sabashnikovykh Publ., 2003. 512 p. (In Russian)

3 Brun V., Til"ke M. Istoriia kostiuma: ot drevnosti do nashego vremeni [The history of costume: from antiquity to the present]. Moscow, Olma-Press Publ., 1995. 344 p. (In Russian)

4 Vorontsova E. A. Rol' fotografii v transformatsii vizual'noi kul'tury rubezha XIX–XX vv. [The role of photography in the transformation of visual culture at the turn of the 19^th–20^th c.: PhD thesis]. Available at: https://www.dissercat.com/content/rol-fotografii-v-transformatsii-vizualnoi-kultury-rubezha-xix-xx-vv (accessed 20 October 2019). (In Russian)

5 Goncharov Iu. M. Zhenshchiny frontira: sibiriachki v regional'nom sotsiume serediny XIX – nachala XX vv. [Frontier women: Siberians in the regional society of the mid-19^th – early 20^th cs.]. Sotsial'naia istoriia. Ezhegodnik, 2003. Zhenskaia i gendernaia istoriia [Social history. Yearbook, 2003. Women and gender history], executive edited by N. L. Pushkareva. Moscow, ROSSPEN Publ., 2003. 528 p. (In Russian)

6 Tiumen' glazami khudozhnika, fotografa puteshestvennika XVIII–XX vv.: al'bom [Tyumen through the eyes of the artist, photographer, traveler in 18^th–20^th centuries: album], complicated by N. I. Sezeva. Moscow, Galat Publ., 1998. 204 p. (In Russian)

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