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Title of the article: |
STUDY OF THE SYMBOL SYSTEM OF COSTUME (SSC) OF RUSSIAN STYLE DESIGNER COLLECTIONS OF 2016 AND APPLICATION OF ITS RESULTS FOR DATABASE DEVELOPMENT |
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Author(s): |
Tatiana L. Makarova |
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Information about the author/authors |
Tatiana L. Makarova — DSc in Arts, Professor, A. N. Kosygin Russian State University, Sadovnicheskaya St., 33, build. 1, 117997 Moscow, Russia. E-mail: 2710tlm@list.ru Sergey L. Makarov — PhD in Technical Sciences, Associate Professor, The School of Software Engineering, National Research University “Higher School of Economics”, Kochnovsky passage, 3, 125319 Moscow, Russia. E-mail: mslmslmsl@mail.ru |
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Section |
History of Arts |
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Year |
2019 |
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Volume |
Vol. 54 |
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Pages |
pp. 354–364 |
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Received |
May 02, 2019 |
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Date of publication |
December 28, 2019 |
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Index UDK |
7.072 |
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Index BBK |
85.126(2)7 |
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Abstract |
The article explores the costume symbol system (SSK) in the collections of designers in 2016 in the Russian style. The author dwells on collections of spring/summer 2016 Valentino, A La Russe Anastasia Romantsova, Vilshenko, Antonio Marras spring/summer 2016 and fall/ winter 2016–2017 by Alberta Ferretti, Valentino, Alena Akhmadullina. The paper highlights current symbols in the SSC of this season in the “suit — environment” system: flower, leaf, animals (“suit”), flower and leaf (“environment”). The study reveals dominant color groups in the CCK of collections of designers of the spring-summer and autumn-winter 2016 seasons. It also detected that the semantics of the symbols in the “suit — environment” system was reflected in the colors of the fashion collections. A proportion of the color groups was identified in Russian style collections of 2016, which is close to the European style. In general, “coloristically” in 2016, the Russian style was less pronounced than in 2017, but the costume models were lighter and more tender, the ornaments were expressive, and the forms of the costume were functional. The results of the study were used in the development of the database of T. L. Makarova and S. L. Makarova for the designing of modern suit. |
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Keywords |
database of modern costume design, 2016 fashion, designer collections of 2016, Russian style, symbol, costume symbol, symbol system of costume. |
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References |
1 Kollektsiia A La Russe Anastasia Romantsova, vesna/leto 2016 g. [Collection A La Russe Anastasia Romantsova, spring/summer 2016]. Iandeks. Available at: https://yandex.ru/search/?clid=2186617&text=A%20La%20Russe%20Anastasia%20Romantsova%202016%20%D0%B2%D0%B5%D1%81%D0%BD%D0%B0&lr=213&redircnt=1556740779.1- (accessed 19 October 2019). (In Russian) 2 Kollektsiia Alena Akhmadullina, osen'/zima 2016–2017 [Collection Alena Akhmadullina, autumn/winter 2016–2017]. Iandeks. Available at: https://yandex.ru/images/search?text=Alena%20Akhmadullina%2C%20%D0%BE%D1%81%D0%B5%D0%BD%D1%8C%2F%D0%B7%D0%B8%D0%BC%D0%B0%202016-2017&pos=71&p=1&img_url=https%3A%2F%2Fd2. static.media.condenast.ru%2Fvogue%2F27871f50095e08df03438f501d784ef4.jpg%2Fa3419df0%2Fo%2Fw600&rpt=simage (accessed 19 October 2019). (In Russian) 3 Kollektsiia Valentino, vesna/leto 2016 g. [Collection Valentino spring/summer 2016]. Iandeks. Available at: https://yandex.ru/images/search?text=Valentino%2C%20spring%20summer%202016%20-&stype=image&lr=213&source=wiz&pos=36&img_url=https% 3A%2F%2Fi.pinimg.com%2Foriginals%2F72%2F34%2F87%2F7234879a3bfae0ce338c423bb1b3a87c.jpg&rpt=simage (accessed 19 October 2019). (In Russian) 4 Kollektsiia Valentino, osen'/zima 2016–2017 [Collection Valentino, autumn/winter 2016–2017]. Iandeks. Available at: https://yandex.ru/images/search?pos=69&p=1&img_url=http%3A%2F%2Faccessrunway.accessfashionmedia.com%2Fcollections%2Fparis%2FFW16%2Fvalentino%2FJPEG%2F043.jpg&text=Valentino%2C%20fall%20-%20winter%202016&rpt=simage (accessed 19 October 2019). (In Russian) 5 Makarova T. L., Makarov S. L. Analiz sistemy simvolov kostiuma (SSK) v kollektsiiakh dizainerov 2017 g. v russkom stile i ispol'zovanie rezul'tatov issledovaniia v razrabotke bazy dannykh [Analysis of the costume symbol system (SSC) in Russian style in the collections of designers in 2017 and the use of research results in the development of database]. Vestnik slavianskikh kul'tur, 2017, vol. 46, pp. 257–267. (In Russian) 6 Makarova T. L., Makarov S. L. Informatsionnye tekhnologii v oformlenii modnykh sobytii (events): simvolika novykh obrazov [Information technology in the design of fashion events: the symbolism of new images]. Dizain i tekhnologii, 2016, no 53 (95), pp. 6–17. (In Russian) 7 Makarova T. L., Makarov S. L. Rezul'taty analiza “Sistemy simvolov kostiuma” (SSK) za sezon vesna-leto i razrabotka bazy dannykh i komp'iuternoi programmy [Results of the analysis of “system of symbols of a suit” (SSK) for a season spring-summer and development of the database and computer program]. Dizain i tekhnologii, 2015, 8 Makarova T. L. Simvoly v dizaine i reklame sovremennogo kostiuma [Symbols in the design and advertising of modern costume]. Moscow, Izdatel'stvo MGUDT Publ., 2016. 112 p. (In Russian) |
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