Title of the article:



Olga V. Orfinskaya

Bella L. Shapiro

Information about the author/authors

Olga V. Orfinskaya — PhD in History, Senior Researcher, Likhachev Russian Research Institute for Cultural and Natural Heritage, Kosmonavtov St., 2, 129301 Moscow, Russia. ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-5473-805X. E-mail orfio@yandex.ru

Bella L. Shapiro — PhD in History, Associate Professor of Museology Department, Russian State University for the Humanities, Miusskaya Sq., 6, 125993 Moscow, Russia. ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-5616-8898. E-mail b.shapiro@mail.ru


Theory and history of culture




Vol. 62


pp. 23–35


June 29, 2020

Date of publication

December 28, 2021



Index UDK


Index BBK



This paper discusses a costume complex from the burial of the Princess Natalya Alexeevna Romanova, the sister of Emperor Peter II. The burial of the young Princess took place in a dynastic necropolis of the Ascension Monastery of the Moscow Kremlin in January 1729, among dozens of tombs of Great Duchesses, Queens And Princesses. Two hundred years later, with the destruction of the monastery, by the efforts of museum and scientific staff, all the sarcophagi of the necropolis moved to the Moscow Kremlin Museums. Here is where their research began as part of a large project “Historical Necropolis” (supervisor T. D. Panova). The costume complex from the burial of Princess Natalya Romanova was studied and restored in 2008–2010 under the highest category restorer in textile and leather N. P. Sinitsyna`s guidance. However, not all the items from the burial have survived to our days — only the princess's dress, her order things, stockings and part of a heavily ruined headdress have been preserved. The other part of the costume complex has been lost for various reasons and at different times (Grand Duke's Mantle, funeral crown, wig, shoes, etc.). This research came as an attempt to present the funeral costume complex in its integrity.


The Romanovs, monastic archeology, dynastic archeology, necrosphere of ritual, history of costume, textiles, Moscow Kremlin Museums.


1 Amelekhina S. A. Tseremonial'nyi kostium Rossiiskogo imperatorskogo dvora v sobranii Muzeev Moskovskogo Kremlia [Ceremonial costume of the Russian Imperial Court in the collection of Moscow Kremlin Museums]. Moscow, Moskovskii Kreml' Publ., 2016. 336 p. (In Russian)

2 Aronova A. A. Poslednee torzhestvo imperatritsy Elizavety Petrovny [The last celebration of Empress Elizaveta Petrovna]. Iskusstvoznanie, 2016, no 3, pp. 98–135. (In Russian)

3 Berkhgol'ts F. V. Dnevnik kamer-iunkera Berkhgol'tsa [The diary of the Berchholtz kammerjunker]. Moscow, Universitetskaia tipografiia Publ., 1903. Part 3. 187 p. (In Russian)

4 Bolotina N. Iu. Poslednii put' tsarevny Praskov'i Ivanovny: tseremonial pokhoron chlena imperatorskoi familii Romanovykh [The Final Journey of Tsarevnae Praskovia Ivanovna: the funeral ceremony for a member of the imperial family Romanov]. In: Romanovy v doroge [The Romanovs are on the road]. Moscow, St. Petersburg, Nestor-Istoriia Publ., 2016, pp. 23–32. (In Russian)

5 Bykova Iu. I. Novye svedeniia o tvorchestve pridvornogo iuvelira Iakoba Dublona (1702–1768) i ego rol' v sozdanii Malykh imperatorskikh koron [New information about the work of the court jeweler Jacob Dublon (1702–1768) and his role in creation of the Small Imperial Crown]. Kul'tura i iskusstvo, 2018, no 12, pp. 29–44. (In Russian)

6 Bykova Iu. I. Khudozhestvennye osobennosti imperatorskikh pogrebal'nykh koron v Rossii XVIII – nachala XIX veka [Artistic features of the imperial burial crowns in Russia of 18 – early 19 centuries]. Kul'tura i iskusstvo, 2019, no 9, pp. 28–46. (In Russian)

7 Veber F. Zapiski Vebera o Petre Velikom i ego preobrazovaniiakh [Weber's Notes on Peter the Great and his Reforms]. Russkii arkhiv, 1872, no 7, col. 1334–1457. (In Russian)

8 Volkova M. A. Koronatsionnye regalii v tseremonii imperatorskoi koronatsii v Rossii XVIII v. [Coronation regalia at the 18th century imperial coronation ceremony in Russia]. Vestnik Moskovskogo Universiteta, Series 8, Istoriia [History], 2010, no 2, pp. 99–108. (In Russian)

9 Gosudarstvennyi Istoricheskii muzei, Moskva. Shedevry iuvelirnogo iskusstva [State Historical Museum, Moscow. Masterpieces of jewelry art]. Leningrad, Avrora Publ., 1986. 168 p. (In Russian)

10 Demidenko Iu. B. Vek parikmakherov: “kryl'ia golubia” i La Belle Poule [The age of hairdressers: “wings of a dove” and La Belle Poule]. Teoriia mody, 2015, no 36, pp. 99–121. (In Russian)

11 Demidenko Iu. B. Kratkaia istoriia chulok [Brief history of stockings]. Teoriia mody, 2006, no 2, pp. 259–274. (In Russian)

12 Levin S. S. Zhenskie nagrady Rossiiskoi imperii [Women's awards of the Russian Empire]. Moscow, Tonchu Publ., 2013. 228 p. (In Russian)

13 Logunova M. O. Pechal'nye ritualy imperatorskoi Rossii [Mournful rituals of imperial Russia]. Moscow, Tsentrpoligraf Publ., 2011. 277 p. (In Russian)

14 Logunova M. O. Posle smerti: chto proiskhodilo s tsarskimi zakhoroneniiami v Petropavlovke [After death: what happened to the royal burials in Petropavlovka]. In: Dialog, interv'iu agentstvo [Dialogue, interview agency]. Available at: https://topdialog.ru/2018/08/14/petropavlovskaya-krepost/ (accessed 11 May 2020). (In Russian)

15 Maslova G. S. Narodnaia odezhda v vostochnoslavianskikh traditsionnykh obychaiakh i obriadakh XIX – nachala XX v. [Folk Clothing in East Slavonic traditional customs and rites of the 19th – early 20th centuries]. Moscow, Nauka Publ., 1984. 216 p. (In Russian)

16 Nann Dzh. Istoriia kostiuma, 1200–2000 [Costume History, 1200–2000]. Moscow, Astrel': AST Publ., 2005. 343 p. (In Russian)

17 Opis' Moskovskoi Oruzheinoi Palaty [Description of the Moscow Armory]. Moscow, Tipografiia Obshchestva rasprostraneniia poleznykh knig Publ., 1884. Part 1: Tsarskaia obraznaia [Tsarist imagery]. 139 p. (In Russian)

18 Osipov D. O. Obuv' moskovskoi zemli XII–XVIII vv. [Shoes of Moscow land 12th–18th centuries]. Moscow, Izdatel'stvo IA RAN Publ., 2006. 202 p. (In Russian)

19 Panova T. D. Kremlevskie usypal'nitsy. Istoriia, sud'ba, taina [The Kremlin's tombs. History, destiny, mystery]. Moscow, Indrik Publ., 2003. 224 p. (In Russian)

20 Panova T. D. Tsarstvo smerti. Pogrebal'nyi obriad srednevekovoi Rusi XI–XVI vekov [The kingdom of death. Funeral ceremony of medieval Russia 11–16 centuries]. Moscow, Radunitsa Publ., 2004. 184 p. (In Russian)

21 Petushkova G. I., Rikhlitskaia P. E. Svadebnoe plat'e: istoriia i sovremennost' [Wedding Dress: History and Modernity]. Vestnik slavianskikh kul'tur, 2018, vol. 47,
pp. 261–269. (In Russian)

22 Pis'ma ledi Rondo [Lady Rondo`s Letters]. St. Petersburg, Tipografiia III Otdela Sobstvennoi E. I. V. Kantseliarii Publ., 1836. 128 p. (In Russian)

23 Sbornik Russkogo Istoricheskogo Obshchestva [Collection of the Russian Historical Society]. St. Petersburg, Tipografiia I. N. Skorokhodova Publ., 1894. Vol. 94. 871 p. (In Russian)

24 Sbornik Russkogo Istoricheskogo Obshchestva [Collection of the Russian Historical Society]. St. Petersburg, Tipografiia I. N. Skorokhodova Publ., 1900. Vol. 107. 576 p. (In Russian)

25 Suslina E. N. Povsednevnaia zhizn' russkikh shchegolei i modnits [Everyday Life of Russian Dandies and Fashionists]. Moscow, Molodaia gvardiia Publ., 2003. 381 p. (In Russian)

26 Uspenskii A. I. Zapisnye knigi i bumagi starinnykh dvortsovykh prikazov. Dokumenty XVIII–XIX vv. byvshego Arkhiva Oruzheinoi Palaty [Record books and papers of ancient palace orders. Documents of the 18th–19th centuries of the former Armory Archive]. Moscow, Pechatnia A. I. Snegirevoi Publ., 1906. 247 p. (In Russian)

27 Shapiro B. L. Istoriia kruzheva kak kul'turnyi tekst [Lace history as a cultural text]. Moscow, Novoe literaturnoe obozrenie Publ., 2018. 272 p. (In English)

28 Cumming V. Gloves. London, B. T. Batsford Publ., 1982. 96 p. (In English)

29 Waugh N. The Cut of Women's Clothes. 1600–1930. New York, Theatre Arts Books Publ., 1968. 336 p. (In English)